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Caloric Refrigerator has frost or ice buildup

If your Caloric refrigerator has frost or ice buildup, it usually means the defrost system is failing, not that the fridge is simply cold. The most likely culprit is a bad defrost control board, but before replacing it test the defrost heater and defrost thermostat to rule them out. If those check out, a faulty defrost timer can prevent the unit from entering or completing the defrost cycle. A stuck or nonrunning evaporator fan motor can let cold air migrate and freeze the defrost drain, so inspect the fan and bearings. A clogged defrost drain or a missing drain strap that helps conduct heat into the drain will let ice build up farther down the line, making the drain clogged and the refrigerator not defrosting properly. These parts are common fixes you can handle with a few tools and a multimeter. Enter your model number on RepairClinic.com to find the exact replacement part for your refrigerator and step-by-step parts guidance.

01 - Caloric Refrigerator Defrost Control Board

The defrost control board determines how often to run the defrost cycle. If the board fails, the refrigerator will not go into the defrost cycle. Before replacing the defrost control board, first test the defrost heater and defrost thermostat. If the defrost heater and defrost thermostat are working properly, the defrost control board is likely defective.
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02 - Caloric Refrigerator Defrost Timer

The defrost timer turns on the defrost heater several times throughout the day to melt any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost timer is defective, it may not advance into the defrost cycle, or it may not send power to the defrost heater during the defrost cycle. To determine if the defrost timer is defective, slowly advance the dial into the defrost cycle. The compressor should turn off and the heater should turn on. If the timer does not send power to the defrost components or advance out of the defrost cycle within 30 minutes, this indicates that the defrost timer is not advancing. If ...the defrost timer is not advancing, replace it.
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03 - Caloric Refrigerator Water Inlet Valve

The water inlet valve requires a minimum of 20 psi to shut off properly. If the water pressure is too low, the valve may not close fully once the power is shut off. As a result, the valve will leak water into the ice maker and cause the ice maker to overflow. Check the water pressure to determine if it is at least 20 psi. If the water pressure is sufficient, the water inlet valve is likely defective. The valve may not shut off all the way or may be stuck open, causing water to leak through the valve. If the water pressure is sufficient, but the ice maker is still overflowing, replace the water inlet valve.
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04 - Caloric Refrigerator Fan Motor

If the refrigerator's defrost drain is clogged, it's possible the evaporator fan motor is not working. If the evaporator fan is not running, cold air from the evaporator can migrate to the defrost drain causing ice buildup in the drain. To determine if the evaporator fan motor is defective, try turning the fan blade by hand. If the fan blade does not turn freely, replace the fan motor. Additionally, if the motor is unusually noisy, replace it. Finally, if the motor does not run at all, use a multimeter to test the motor windings for continuity. If the windings do not have continuity, replace the evaporator fan motor.
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05 - Caloric Refrigerator Drain Strap

Some defrost drains are outfitted with a drain strap. The drain strap is a small piece of copper or aluminum that attaches to the defrost heater and extends partway into the defrost drain. When the defrost heater turns on, heat is conducted through the drain strap to melt away any ice that may have accumulated further down in the defrost drain. If the drain strap is not in place, the defrost drain may be more likely to freeze over.
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06 - Caloric Refrigerator Evaporator Fan Motor

If the refrigerator's defrost drain is clogged, it's possible the evaporator fan motor is not working. If the evaporator fan is not running, cold air from the evaporator can migrate to the defrost drain causing ice buildup in the drain. To determine if the evaporator fan motor is defective, try turning the fan blade by hand. If the fan blade does not turn freely, replace the fan motor. Additionally, if the motor is unusually noisy, replace it. Finally, if the motor does not run at all, use a multimeter to test the motor windings for continuity. If the windings do not have continuity, replace the evaporator fan motor.
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Frequently Asked Questions

My refrigerator has frost or ice buildup. What should I check first?
How do I tell if the defrost timer or defrost control board is bad?
Freezer is cold but the fridge section is warm. Could that be the evaporator fan or a clogged defrost drain?
My ice maker is overflowing with water. Is the water inlet valve the likely cause?
How do I enter my model number or part number on RepairClinic.com to find the correct replacement part?

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