If your Hardwick refrigerator is not defrosting, expect frost or ice buildup on the evaporator coils and inside the freezer. The most common cause is simply a door left open long enough for frost to form, so check seals and how long the door was ajar first. If the door was closed and frost keeps returning, the defrost control board or defrost timer often fails next and prevents the defrost cycle from starting. A worn or twisted door gasket that keeps the door from sealing comes after that, followed by a failed defrost heater assembly or a bad defrost thermostat that will not let the heater run. You can verify the heater and thermostat with a multimeter and slowly advance the timer to see if the unit enters a defrost state; if those parts test good the control board is likely the culprit. For step by step checks and the exact replacement parts, enter your model number on RepairClinic.com to find the right defrost timer, heater, thermostat, gasket, or control board for your refrigerator not defrosting.
01 - Door left open
If the freezer or refrigerator door was left open for an extended period of time (more than 4 hours), frost or ice may have accumulated on the food, evaporator coil and evaporator fan motor, or around the door opening. Frost should go away after the door is closed and the refrigerator goes through a defrost cycle. More significant ice buildup may require the refrigerator to be unplugged for a day to allow the ice to melt, or a hair dryer may be able to be used to assist in melting the ice.
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02 - Hardwick Refrigerator Defrost Control Board
The defrost control board determines how often to run the defrost cycle. If the board fails, the refrigerator will not go into the defrost cycle. Before replacing the defrost control board, first test the defrost heater and defrost thermostat. If the defrost heater and defrost thermostat are working properly, the defrost control board is likely defective.
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The defrost timer turns on the defrost heater several times throughout the day to melt any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost timer is defective, it may not advance into the defrost cycle, or it may not send power to the defrost heater during the defrost cycle. To determine if the defrost timer is defective, slowly advance the dial into the defrost cycle. The compressor should turn off and the heater should turn on. If the timer does not send power to the defrost components or advance out of the defrost cycle within 30 minutes, this indicates that the defrost timer is not advancing. If ...the defrost timer is not advancing, replace it.
A twisted or worn gasket can keep the door from closing properly. Inspect the door gasket for kinks or twists. You can use a hair dryer to try smoothing out the kinks. If the door gasket is damaged it will need to be replaced.
The defrost heater assembly turns on several times throughout the day to melt away any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost heater assembly is defective, the defrost system will not work, and frost will continue to accumulate on the evaporator coils. To determine if the defrost heater is defective, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the defrost heater does not have continuity, replace it.
The defrost thermostat monitors the temperature of the evaporator coils. When the coils drop below a set temperature, the thermostat contacts close to allow power to flow to the defrost heater during the defrost cycle. In the defrost cycle, the defrost heater melts away any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost thermostat is defective, the thermostat contacts will not close. As a result, the thermostat won’t provide power to the defrost heater. To determine if the defrost thermostat is defective, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the defrost thermostat does not have continuity... when it reaches the low temperature of its operating range, replace it.