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Line fuse 20a 250v

Limit switch-upper (lock)

Line fuse 20a 250v

Microwave/range thermal fuse. If the appliance overheats, the thermal fuse blows to cut off power to the appliance. If the thermal fuse has blown, the appliance will no longer heat.

Fuse, time delay 10a 250v

This is a Genuine Replacement Part. General Electric (GENF0) WB27X10195 Microwave Thermo protector.

Line fuse 15a 250v

Line Fuse

Holder fuse

Thermal cut out fuse

Holder fuse mwa
Your GE range's thermal fuse is a one-time safety device designed to shut down power to the oven if it overheats. When the fuse blows, the oven stops working completely — no heat, no broiler, sometimes no stovetop display. The thermal fuse is an inexpensive part (usually $10 to $25), and replacing it is a straightforward fix that takes just a few minutes. Always test continuity with a multimeter first to confirm the fuse has failed, not the element or control board.
GE ranges also use limit switches, oven control boards, and bake/broil elements that work together with the thermal fuse. If your thermal fuse blows repeatedly, the problem isn't the fuse — it's usually a stuck heating element, a blocked vent, or a failing control board. Browse GE range fuses and safety parts by entering your model number to find the exact thermal fuse, limit switch, or board your range needs.
The thermal fuse is a single-use safety device that cuts power to the oven circuit if temperature exceeds the safety threshold — usually around 350°F above normal operating temperature. Once it blows, it must be replaced; it cannot be reset. A blown fuse is always a sign that the oven reached dangerous temperatures. Common causes include a stuck bake element (generating excessive heat), a blocked oven vent, a failed control board sending continuous power to the heating element, or poor airflow inside the oven cabinet. Always investigate why the fuse blew before simply replacing it — otherwise, it will blow again.
The most reliable way is to test continuity with a multimeter. A good thermal fuse reads zero resistance; a blown fuse reads infinite resistance (open circuit). Visually, you may see a blackened or burned spot on the fuse cartridge, but not always. If your oven is completely dead and the rest of the range works, the thermal fuse is a primary suspect. However, if the fuse tests good but the oven still won't heat, the problem is likely the heating element, oven sensor, control board, or a blown circuit breaker — not the fuse. Use your GE model number to confirm which thermal fuse your range uses, and always verify continuity before ordering a replacement.
Yes. After replacing the fuse, test the oven to ensure it heats normally and shuts off at the correct temperature. If the new fuse blows immediately or within a few uses, the underlying problem is still present. Common culprits: (1) Stuck bake element that won't cycle off — test the element for continuity and replace if it's always hot. (2) Failed oven sensor giving incorrect temperature readings to the control board. (3) Faulty control board sending continuous heat even after the oven reaches setpoint. (4) Blocked oven vent or poor air circulation inside the cabinet. A blocked or restricted vent is one of the most overlooked causes — ensure the rear vent opening on your range is clear. If the oven is in a recessed cabinet, verify there's adequate air clearance. Enter your model number to find the exact sensor, element, and board your GE range uses.
All three are safety or control parts, but they work differently. The thermal fuse is a one-time automatic shutoff — it blows if temperature exceeds a fixed threshold, and it must be replaced. The limit switch (hi-limit) is a resettable thermostat that cycles the heating element on and off to maintain the setpoint temperature — if it fails, the oven may overheat or underheat, but it will try again on the next cycle. The oven control board is the electronic "brain" that reads the oven sensor, controls the heating element, and manages the timer and display — if it fails, the oven won't respond to button presses or may show error codes. A blown thermal fuse means the oven got dangerously hot; a failed limit switch means it's not maintaining temperature correctly; a failed board means it's not responding at all. Each requires a different replacement part. Use your GE model number to identify which part your range needs.


Keep your GE range running efficiently by replacing a faulty fuse thermal fuse breaker promptly. With same-day shipping on most in-stock items, you'll have your replacement part fast, minimizing downtime. Our model/part number lookup finds the exact OEM part for your unit, and every order is backed by our 365-day return policy and price-match guarantee. If your GE range fuse thermal fuse breaker is failing — showing symptoms like reduced performance, unusual noise, or complete non-operation — replacement is typically the fastest fix. Browse our full library of GE repair resources for troubleshooting guides and installation videos.
On GE ranges and ovens, look for the model number on a label along the oven door frame, behind the storage drawer, or on the back of the appliance. Open the door and check the frame first, then remove the drawer if the label is not there. The number usually combines letters and digits, so copy it exactly, including any suffix. Enter it in the model number search to pull up the parts matched to your unit. This filters the full GE range and oven catalog, not just the fuse or safety parts, so you can see parts built for your specific appliance. You order with confidence knowing the fit is right.

Repair Clinic makes GE Range Stove Oven repair straightforward with a deep online library of videos, guides, and diagnostic articles. Step-by-step written instructions cover disassembly, testing, and reassembly, and the video library shows the same work in action so you can follow along. Use the model number lookup to confirm the exact OEM part, and wiring diagrams and part testing walkthroughs support the more technical steps.

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