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Drive motor kit - Note; the wiring connections may be different, comes with instructions

Dryer blower housing foam seal with adhesive backing. 26 in

Dryer drum drive belt

Seal, blower cover plate. 26 in

Timer

Dryer front panel retainer clip. 1 clip per pack.

Adjustable leveling leg for washing machine. This leveling leg has a rubber foot. If the leveling leg is not adjusted properly, the washer will be off-balance and will vibrate or shake during operation.

Dryer LP conversion kit; Natural gas to LP (liquid propane). This kit includes the orifice, leak limiter, and instruction sheet.

Shaft for dryer drum support roller. Front shaft with right hand threads. Part is updated so nuts may need to be replaced as well on older dryers.

Shaft for drum support roller, left side

Screw, 10-24 3/8

Cycling thermostat, with internal-bias heater L155-25F

Dryer door seal. 61.42 inches.

Cleaning brush for refrigerators, freezers, dryers and more. This brush is perfect for cleaning condenser coils on refrigeration systems. It is important to regularly clean the condenser coil to ensure the refrigerator is running efficiently.

Lower panel retainer clip
Maytag Centennial dryers are built for simplicity and value — and they're designed to be fixed. When your Centennial stops heating, won't tumble, or starts making noise, you're usually looking at one of a handful of common failures that are straightforward to repair yourself. The thermal fuse is the #1 reason a Centennial produces no heat; the belt and drum rollers account for most mechanical issues. Repair Clinic stocks genuine OEM Maytag parts for your exact model, shipped same-day in most cases.
Your model number is everything — Centennial dryers span decades of production, and a few digits make the difference between the right part and a costly misfit. Find your model on the nameplate inside the door, or use our lookup tool above to confirm exact compatibility before you order.
The thermal fuse is hands-down #1. It's a $5 to $15 one-time safety device that blows when the dryer overheats — usually from a clogged vent. The dryer will run but produce zero heat. Before replacing it, always check that your vent isn't blocked. Then install the OEM thermal fuse and your heat returns. It's a 10-minute fix that saves the cost of a service call.
The drive belt. When you hear the motor running but the drum stays still, the flat multi-rib belt has snapped. While you're in there, inspect the idler pulley — it keeps tension on the belt, and when it wears out, the belt wears faster. Replacing both at once costs a little more upfront but prevents a second repair in six months. Use your model number to get the exact belt length and width.
Open the dryer door and look at the metal nameplate on the right or left side of the door frame. It shows a model number that starts with MEDC or MEDZ. Write it down and enter it into Repair Clinic's parts finder — it will show you every compatible part for your exact machine, from thermal fuse to drum rollers. No guessing, no wrong parts.
Worn drum rollers or the drum axle. The rollers are plastic wheels that ride on the outside of the drum, and over time they flatten from friction. The axle is a metal shaft at the back of the drum that can wear a groove. Both cause that distinctive thump-thump-thump sound during tumble. Replace drum rollers on both sides at the same time for balanced rotation, or replace the axle assembly if the groove is deep. OEM Maytag parts ensure the drum spins smoothly again.


Keep your Maytag dryer running efficiently by replacing a faulty centennial promptly. With same-day shipping on most in-stock items, you'll have your replacement part fast, minimizing downtime. Our model/part number lookup finds the exact OEM part for your unit, and every order is backed by our 365-day return policy and price-match guarantee. If your Maytag dryer centennial is failing — showing symptoms like reduced performance, unusual noise, or complete non-operation — replacement is typically the fastest fix. Browse our full library of Maytag repair resources for troubleshooting guides and installation videos.
On Maytag Centennial dryers, check the metal nameplate along the inside of the door frame, usually on the right or left side. If it is not there, look on the back panel or near the top edge of the dryer opening. The model number includes letters and numbers, so copy it exactly, including any final digits or suffixes. Enter that number in the Repair Clinic search bar to narrow the complete Maytag Centennial dryer parts catalog to items that fit your specific machine. This model-based search covers the entire unit, whether you need a belt, thermal fuse, drum roller, heating element, or another replacement part. You order with confidence knowing the fit is right.

Repair Clinic's online repair library gives you the tools to diagnose and fix your Maytag Dryer without a service call. Common-symptom articles cover the most likely causes, part testing videos confirm the failed component, and step-by-step written guides walk you through the installation. Use the model number lookup to confirm the exact OEM part, and exploded-view diagrams and wiring illustrations support the more involved jobs.

Is your dryer shutting off unexpectedly? Learn the common causes of airflow issues, faulty thermostats, heating element failure, and more'plus how to fix them with expert repair tips and OEM parts from Repair Clinic.

Dryer won't start or turn on? Learn the common causes, from faulty start switches to blown thermal fuses, and find step-by-step troubleshooting tips. Get expert repair advice and genuine OEM parts from Repair Clinic.

Dryer drum won't spin? Learn the top 5 reasons why, from a broken drive belt to worn rollers or a faulty motor. Get expert troubleshooting tips and shop genuine OEM dryer parts at Repair Clinic.